Article: RESTAURANT REVIEW; Spanning the gastronomic globe; Yumi's Sushi Bar, Puerta Azul are welcome signs of change on local dining scene.(TASTE)

On a busy night at Yumi's Sushi Bar, customers banter with Tuan Lam, one of the sushi chefs. When Lam tells them that he is originally from Hawaii, they immediately ask what the heck a guy from Hawaii is doing in Minnesota, fer gosh sakes. (OK, I exaggerate, just a little.)

"Witness protection program," Lam says, without missing a beat.

You might as well ask what a sushi bar is doing in Excelsior, near the shores of Lake Minnetonka.

Or what a Puerto Rican cafe called Puerta Azul is doing on the corner of Fairview and Selby Avs. in St. Paul.

It used to be that interesting ethnic restaurants were mostly concentrated in a few predictable ...

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