Article: Tourist in a TORN LAND; The past throws long shadows over the present in Cambodia, a country ravaged by a senseless war, then systematically broken by one of the cruelest regimes in human history. How does a country whose name is synonymous with the Killing Fields resurrect its economy? Tourism, of course.(TRAVEL)

"You want to shoot machine gun?" the motorcycle driver shouted over the sound of the traffic.

"I don't know. Maybe."

"It's OK! Every day, I take tourist, shoot machine gun. No problem. Twenty dollars for clip in AK-47."

I thought about it.

"All right," I said. "Let's go."

The driver turned the bike down a side street, and we headed out of Phnom Penh. In the Khmer language, Penh is a woman's name. Phnom means hill. Phnom Penh is the capital of Cambodia.

Cambodia is a place where people with machine guns and iron rods and scythes and clubs committed murder on a genocidal scale in the late 1970s. Out of a population of ...

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