Article: PRUSSIAN GRANDEUR AND HIGH-TECH GLOSS: Berlin Redux.(restorations and recollections in East Grmany as the 10th anniversary of the destuction of the Berlin Wall is celebrated)

MY PATERNAL grandfather, Jakob Glass, a wealthy investment banker in prewar Poland, loved to travel but disdained carrying any luggage whatsoever. He embarked on his annual grand tours of Europe without so much as a pocket comb, having deposited in advance splendid wardrobes and a full set of matching accessories at each of the various luxurious hostelries where he would be stopping.

In Berlin--then, as now, an eight-hour train trip from Warsaw--grandfather put up at the Adlon, near the Brandenburg Gate, on Unter den Linden. Well before his arrival, a hotel butler would lay out his personal cache in cherry wood cabinets that rested on marble floors festooned with ...

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