Article: Culinary history - France's other revolution.(Review)

THE INVENTION OF THE RESTAURANT: PARIS AND MODERN GASTRONOMIC CULTURE. By Rebecca L. Spang. Harvard University Press; 336 pages; $35 and Pounds23.50

ALONG with your guides to where to eat in France this summer, you might think of taking this illuminating new book. The idea that the restaurant had to be invented, just like the printing press, the steam engine and the transistor, may sound odd. But invented it was, as Rebecca Spang reveals in this excursion into culinary history. Gastronomic innovations such as printed menus allowing diners to make individual choices, private rather than communal tables and the abolition of fixed meal times can all be traced back ...

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