Article: EXPO '98 MAY BE LAST CHANCE TO SAMPLE A CHANGING PORTUGAL.(Getaways)

Some tourists hold that Portuguese culture ``doesn't travel well'' - like the country's ubiquitous vinho verde, that bubbly ``green'' wine rarely bottled for export.

That may seem an odd assessment of a people whose exploits at sea in the 15th and 16th centuries helped lead to European colonization of much of the world and are now poised to play host to the last and largest world's fair of the 20th century.

But anywhere else in the world you'd be hard pressed to find a fado bar like those in Lisbon (Lisboa, if you prefer), where the locals belt out their plaintive folk songs to the strum of guitars.

Come spring, millions of people will get a ...

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