Article: TRICKLE OF U.S. TOURISTS WARMLY WELCOMED BACK TO IRAN.(Getaways)

Inside the Islamic Museum in Tehran, Mimi McLaughlan of Chicago was studiously taking notes, a tuft of gray hair protruding beneath the scarf she wore to comply with Islamic laws.

The low hum of conversation in the darkened hall of Islamic art treasures mingled with camera clicks. In a corner, Katherine O'Hara of New York was taking snapshots of a 17th-century book cover with signs of the zodiac.

The two women moved on with their group of American tourists, led by guide Peter Morgan of Britain, who stopped to extol a section of an early 12th-century mud wall engraved with brown cursive writing in a stylized form of Islamic calligraphy called Kufic.

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