Article: Travel: Chequered Istria; Conflict hasn't helped Croatia, but now it's business as usual in this beautiful part of the world, writes Michael Greenwood.(Features)

EDDIE refused to let his fag ash fall on the streets of his beloved town.

Our guide to Pula, a port on the Istrian riviera in Croatia, is quite an advert for his country.

He keeps a small screw-top jar in his suit pocket so that each time his cigarette is about to drop ash he uses it as an ashtray.

He'd never allow a butt to land on the floor and, like the rest of his proud nation, he is the perfect host.

And what a beautiful country Croatia is. ...

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