Braids, balls and knots of milky, tender-sweet fresh mozzarella. Big spheres . . . and small, with musical, polysyllabic names like bocconcini, ovolini and ciliegini.

Don't confuse this fresh mozzarella with the low-moisture, dense, brownish-yellow "regular" mozzarella sold in most American supermarkets. Often called "pizza cheese," this supersalty substance has a long shelf life and rubbery texture.

Fresh mozzarella is bleached sheet white, with a nutty, fresh-milk flavor and silk-tender texture. It's sold refrigerated, floating in a whey-and-water bath, often stored in small plastic tubs.

"Where I grew up, in the Campania region of Italy, mozzarella di bufala ...

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