Article: The unofficial Jubilee Year guide to Rome.(historic sites in Rome that address some of Catholic Church's darker past)

Off the beaten path, Catholic Christianity, warts and all

By the stroke of midnight on Dec. 31, 2000, some 25 to 40 million extra visitors will have descended upon Rome to take part in the Catholic church's Jubilee Year. Most will have followed the standard pilgrim's tour: the catacombs, the Vatican museums, a papal audience on Wednesday, or his appearance for the Angelus on Sunday, and above all trips to the four great basilicas: St. Peter, St. Mary Major, St. John Lateran, and St. Paul Outside the Walls.

The journey to these soaring structures is time well spent. Each is a masterpiece; Christianity must have done something right over the centuries to ...

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