Article: Updating a French classic; New chef rewrites Le Perigord menu to serve up earthy, elegant meals.(Review)

Georges briguet has 18 tuxedoes and a new chef.

The formal attire is essential because he is the Iron Host, fronting his restaurant Le Perigord nonstop since 1964. The genial Swiss-born boniface acknowledges as his mentor the late Charles Masson of La Grenouille, where he worked when he was 26.

As for chef Jacques Qualin, fresh from the kitchens of Jean Georges and JoJo, M. Briguet says: ``When you reach my stage in life, you need a new beginning. Jacques is like Andre Soltner, totally focused on food 24 hours a day. When he is not here cooking, he is thinking of cooking.'' Since the chef's wife cooks at the restaurant Daniel, that may well be the case.

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