Article: RELAX, `EAT FAT,' ENJOY LIFE'S PLEASURES, SAYS CONTRARIAN.(Spotlight)(Review)

Byline: Richard Bernstein 4Richard Bernstein reviews books for The New York Times. The New York Times.

Eat Fat

By Richard Klein. Pantheon.

247 pages. $24.

Richard Klein, who entered the Contrarians' Hall of Fame with his book Cigarettes Are Sublime a couple of years ago, has done it again. Last time he wrote of the pleasures of smoking. This time the subject is fat.

In both instances, Klein finds the combination of American utopianism, moralism and consumer culture to be well nigh unbearable. And so, Klein, professor of French at Cornell University, rants entertainingly against the narrow arbitrariness of taste.

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