Article: OFTEN IMITATED, NEVER DUPLICATED\SPECIAL CARE ENSURES THAT PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO IS AUTHENTIC PARMESAN CHEESE.(SPOTLIGHT ON FOOD)

Byline: BILL ST. JOHN NEWS DINING AND WINE CRITIC

PARMA, ITALY -- Fire and milk conspire elsewhere to make cheese, but nowhere better than here.

This is the home of Parmigiano-Reggiano, the crystalline, ivory-white cow's milk cheese, crafted hereabouts in the same way for more than 800 years.

Simply put, Parmigiano-Reggiano is a firm, semi-fat cheese made of partially-skimmed cow's milk, gently cooked, pressed, molded into squat cylinders, brined and slowly aged for 12-24 months.

There is no other cheese like Parmigiano-Reggiano, though there are many copycat cheeses from around the world which carry the name "Parmesan."

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