OLD SAN JUAN, Puerto Rico _ The stone steps are deep and smooth in the middle, a testament to centuries of wear.
Inside the coolness of stone tunnels, one can almost hear the stomp of ancient soldiers' boots, and the cries warning of enemy ships approaching. Sounds echo through the dank dungeons, while high above, through the keyhole-shaped sentry tower windows, the dazzling blue ocean sparkles like diamonds in the sun.
This is the Castle of San Felipe del Morro, or "El Morro." For centuries, the fortress helped protect Puerto Rico from marauding enemies; now, it welcomes thousands annually _ this time in the form of tourists.
For years, however, Puerto Rico has ...