Article: ANCHOVIES CAN BE SURPRISINGLY SUBTLE.(FLAVOR)

Byline: BETTY DOUGLASS, CORRESPONDENT

ANCHOVIES are small silvery fish that are usually cured with salt. Many are then tightly packed with oil in flat, 2-ounce tins.

Salt-cured anchovies also are available in some markets. The salt-cured anchovies should be rinsed before using and some may need to be filleted.

Along with olive oil and garlic, anchovies are among the essential elements of Mediterranean cuisine. In an article in the December 1996 issue of Fine Cooking, Paul Bertolli writes, ``Eaten straight from the can, anchovies are briny and assertive, but when cooked or combined with other ingredients, anchovies fortify the taste of other ...

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