Article: You still don't want to breathe too deeply, but crime has dropped.(Knight Ridder/Tribune News Service)

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MEXICO CITY _ There aren't many places where you can jump from the Stone Age to Tomorrowland in one day. But you can in Mexico City.

Long known for its fascinating step-pyramids, Mexico City also sports some of the most avant-garde buildings in the world and a sophistication to go with them. It's a city with eons of things to see _ the only challenge is figuring out how.

Of course, the city has hobbled under the reputation of murky smog banks and petty crime. But crime is down in this metropolis and it's a goodwill wind that often dissipates the smog in the cooler months.

There are very few city centers that boast seven layers of ...

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