Article: Meals take center stage; Chinoiserie serves flavorful, fun French-Asian foodin dramatic setting.(Review)

Chinoiserie is where it's at, ``it'' representing the cutting edge of hospitality's future. There is no denying fusion food's forward thrust, with the keenest focus on an Asian component. And as we continue to casualize the dining experience, we respond to those who know that mealtime is also showtime, and play it to the hilt.

Enter Abraham Merchant, canny creator of eight earlier Manhattan venues, with Chinoiserie. His collaborators are Richard Cohn, Andrew Emmet, the savvy manager Patrick Faup and chef Marc Murphy, whose French training, Asian ingredients and imagination result in flavorful food that is fun.

But first, the setting. The brother-sister ...

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