Article: DELIGHT: CHINA'S `GYPSIES' THRIVE WITH HAKKA CUISINE ON AURORA.(What's Happening)(Review)

Aurora Avenue. Neon signs and U-Haul readerboards pitch auto parts, franchise burgers, discount tires, tacos, pho, used cars, teriyaki. With its cheap commercial rents, Aurora's a nursery for start-up businesses and entrepreneurial upstarts. It's a lively marketplace serving a steady stream of stop-and-go traffic. Businesses survive or they don't with amazing swiftness.

Doong Kong Lau has not only survived, it's thrived since 1989. Henry and Cindy Chen are Hakkas, a stubbornly unique ethnic group of northern Chinese originally from around the Yellow River, but displaced and wandering since the thirrd century B.C.

Known as the "gypsies of China," Hakkas ...

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