Article: DOWN-HOME COOKING: SOUTHERN COMFORT AUTHOR PIECES TOGETHER A PORTRAIT OF ANTEBELLUM PLANTATION LIFE IN LETTERS AND RECIPES.(FLAVOR)

Byline: BILL RUEHLMANN, SPECIAL TO FLAVOR

BEFORE KFC - shoot, before Col. Sanders was born - they cooked:

Boil a chicken with the giblets until tender.

Set aside until cold, then cut into pieces 1/2-inch square. Put into a stewpan with pepper, salt, 3 hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, a teacup of the broth the fowl boiled in, a coffee cup of cream and a piece of butter rolled in flour the size of an egg. Set on the fire and simmer for 10 minutes.

Then add a teacup of wine and serve.

That recipe, for Chicken Terrapin, is 150 years old. It doesn't date. It was a sure-fire finger-licker then and so it remains, one stubborn constant ...

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