Article: Fresh from California. (restaurant menu ideas)

FRESH from California

A few years ago, California restaurants proved that fresh ingredients are worth the extra trouble, that food should enhance health, that it's okay for restaurant design to be outrageous. The rest of us fell into line.

And yet we smile at the idea of catfish whiskers, marinated in lime juice and rice vinegar, then grilled over chunks of ancient redwood and served with a tomatillo-mango-pasilla chili salsa. Somehow, it belongs to the California cuisine of popular mythology: exotic (or weird, depending on how polite you want to be), terminally trendy, impractical.

Even the practitioners of California cooking acknowledge its ...

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