Ross' Grill. 237 Commercial St. (Whaler's Wharf), Provincetown; (508) 487-8878 two and a half stars
Real Provincetowners eat at Ross' Grill. Day-trippers don't ordinarily stumble upon the smallish restaurant, which opened last September, on the second floor in the rear of the newly rebuilt Whaler's Wharf, destroyed by fire several years ago. Weekly visitors, attracted to the people-watching and glitzy menus of self-consciously trendy eateries, give Ross' short shrift. But true Provincetowners, folks who've put down roots in P-Town, eat at Ross' . . . frequently.
At Ross', you can usually find a seat, even in August. Provincetowners like that. They also like the selection of 45 wines by the …