Article: RESTAURANT REVIEW; Biscayne Bay; Food has flair; flaw is in timing.(TASTE)

Byline: Jeremy Iggers; Staff Writer

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The restaurant critic's job has its share of joys and sorrows, and a recent visit to the Biscayne Bay restaurant at the Airport Hilton offered a measure of both.

One of the great pleasures of reviewing is discovering good food in unexpected places. And one of the sorrows of the job is to have a potentially satisfying dining experience marred by bad timing.

I don't ordinarily expect to find good food in hotel restaurants, because they have less incentive to achieve excellence. Hotels have a ready-made clientele of out-of-town guests, who often find it simpler to dine in the hotel than ...

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