Article: Mirror Travel: That's Mai kind of town; After a lifetime away, Mike Gillender finds that Thailand's mix of old and new can still beguile him.(Features)

Byline: Mike Gillender

I WAS last in Chiang Mai in 1975, the year Saigon fell. A young man then, I travelled up from Bangkok on the overnight bus and lugged my backpack to the YMCA.

I fell in love with the place and, 26 six years later, the affair lives on - unlike quite a few others.

This was my first time back to Thailand's northern capital. And things had changed. My flight from Bangkok took one hour and I stayed at a five-star hotel.

Try as I did over the next few days, directing amiable tuk-tuk drivers around the hot, dusty streets, ...

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