Article: My pick of the grapes of Rothschild; Lifestyle: In years to come, when a well-heeled wine-lover uncorks a bottle of 2002 Mouton Rothschild, he will have Nick Curtis to thank.

Byline: NICK CURTIS

IT may be raining in London but it's 30 degrees here at Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and the burgeoning Bordeaux sun has ripened the grapes into tight, voluptuous clusters. A group of gnarled French peasants suck the last millimetres of Gauloise through their purple-stained fingers, toss their coffee dregs at the fruit flies buzzing between the vines, and unholster their secateurs... Well, it wasn't quite like that. The flies were drowned out by twittering mobile phones. The grape pickers in this particular field were not Gallic peasants earning [pound]25 a day, but employees of Baron Philippe de Rothschild (s.a.) Ltd, restaurateurs, wine ...

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