Article: Cheese Stands Alone.(reinventing the cheese course)(Brief Article)

More and more American restaurants are introducing a course that has long been a staple in Europe.

Charles de Gaulle once said of France, "One cannot simply bring together a country that produces 265 kinds of cheese." One wonders what he would have thought of a restaurant like New York's Artisanal, which lists nearly that number on a menu reveling in such rich dishes as an onion, bacon and Beaufort cheese tart, a fondue of Stilton and Sauternes, ratatouille and goat-cheese polenta, and a cheesecake with a spiced strawberry-rhubarb compote. Artisanal is the extrapolation of chef Terrance Brennan's first New York restaurant, Picholine, which features a mere sixty ...

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