Article: Step back in time to discover the Borgias' Italy; A little-known part of the eastern Italian coast charms Carole Howland with the history and beauty of its architecture, museums and rare wildlife.(Travel)

Byline: Carole Howland

As the boat glides through the green water, birds fly up from the marsh grasses. Two rows of posts with canes wedged in between hold the canal banks intact. Venice, this is not.

The Po Delta Park covers 150,000 acres of fresh and salt water marshes, the same kind of terrain - or lack of it - on which Venice was built, 70 miles to the north.

For centuries the inhabitants of the Po Estuary subsisted by salt-making and eel-fishing, occasionally fending off the Venetians who coveted their salt.

We dock at an old ...

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