Article: Voss, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2000, $20.(E)(Food)(Wine Of The Week)

Byline: Paul Lukacs

Voss Vineyards' sauvignon blanc, this year's winner of the Oyster Wine competition at the Old Ebbitt Grill in downtown Washington, offers wine lovers an exuberant mouthful of vibrant varietal flavor. Unlike most California sauvignons, many of which get gussied up with oak fermentation and other winemaking gimmickry, it tastes fresh and bright, with flavors that explicitly echo the grapes from which it was made.

Despite their success with other varieties, California vintners tend to underperform with sauvignon blanc. Perhaps because they remember the aggressively vegetal wines they made 20 years ago, most Golden State winemakers act ...

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