Article: `EAT FAT' A THREE-COURSE FEAST OF CULTURAL SPOOF.(L.A. LIFE)(Review)

Byline: Richard Bernstein The New York Times

Title: ``Eat Fat''

Author: Richard Klein

Data: Illustrated. 247 pages, Pantheon; $24

Our rating: Three Stars

Richard Klein, who ascended to the Contrarians' Hall of Fame with his book ``Cigarettes Are Sublime'' a couple of years ago, has done it again. Last time he wrote of the pleasures and the cultural importance of smoking. This time the subject is fat.

In both instances, Klein finds the combination of American utopianism, moralism and consumer culture to be well nigh unbearable. And so, taking leave of his usual occupation as a professor of French at Cornell ...

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