Article: Cheese stands alone.(popularity of cheese courses in fine restaurants)(Brief Article)

Max McCalman spends all his waking moments thinking about cheese. As maitre fromager at New York restaurants Picholine and Artisanal, he must thump, taste, slice, and serve cheese. And he takes his job very seriously. Each night, the coauthor of the newly published The Cheese Plate culls a selection from his refrigerated cheese cave to create his "magnum opus"--a giant cheese board featuring 70 perfectly ripened cheeses that he and his assistants bring tableside via trolley. Any diner who smiles and says you-know-what is treated to his encyclopedic knowledge of the subject.

Once the province of France's world-class restaurants, the cheese course has become all ...

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