Article: Welcome to the firehouse: There's a lot more to firehouse fare than three-alarm chili and black coffee. Fireman-chef Keith Young's best food can hold a (safe) candle to anyone's cooking. (Great Food).(Brief Article)(Recipe)

NO CANDLES PROVIDE MOOD LIGHTing, there's not a napkin ring in sight, and the main interior-decorating statement is a small stuffed dalmatian. When it comes to dinner at Ladder 156 in Brooklyn, presentation is nothing. This is guy dining.

Still, firefighter Keith Young, a culinary-school graduate and the company's self-appointed cook, tries to do it up right, laying off canned foods in favor of fresh. "Maybe a salad," he tells me, "or roasted potatoes rather than frozen french fries out of the bag."

It's not easy Robert Angelone, one of the men Young cooks for, won't touch anything green or leafy or anything that swims. "My favorite vegetable," Angelone likes to say ...

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