Article: To Rome, WITHOUT THE BUGS.

Byline: MAX HASTINGS

The first time Max Hastings went to the Eternal City was as a teenage backpacker and he had to sell his blood to get by. Now, he's returned in style

ONE OF the best reasons for starting to travel as a teenage backpacker is that the memory multiplies the pleasures of revisiting old haunts in middle-aged comfort - better still, luxury.

I first saw Rome almost 40 years ago, sharing a youth hostel with the cockroaches. The whiteness of the knees revealed beneath my shorts made the statues jealous.

This year, I spent five days staying at the most beautiful overnight stop in Rome, Rocco Forte's Hotel de Russie, just off ...

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