Article: A secret too well kept. (German wines) (column)

RECENTLY, I hoisted myself over to the German Wine Information Bureau, which was featuring a tasting of wines of the Nahe region. The Nahe, in West Germany, is no hotbed of the exciting goings-on we have been reading about in the newspapers--on the contrary, it is rather quiet. The Nahe is between the Rhine and the Moselle river valleys. It is dedicated to agriculture--specifically, to grape-growing and wine-making.

I once lunched in a bistro-like tavern in the Nahe's chief town, a pleasant little spa called Bad Kreuznach. I ordered wine, as I automatically do with my meals, and was brought a carafe of a white Landwein (vin du pays), which tasted as if Riesling ...

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