Article: In Iran.

In Frankfurt airport, I witnessed an unexpected phenomenon. The airplane that would carry me to Tehran was disgorging its Frankfurt-bound passengers, Iranians all. As they disembarked, the women stopped in the departure lounge to remove their hejab--chador, rouposh, and head scarf--and brazenly comb their hair before applying makeup and nail polish. Already I began to doubt the severity of the Islamic Republic of Iran. Such backsliding in the early days of the revolution would have been punished by black-shirred "morals police." When my outbound flight was called, dozens of women irritably unpacked their hejab and put it on.

We descended on Tehran through a ...

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