Article: Perfect calamari without a deep-fryer or grill in sight: On the east coast of the Adriatic, squid is simply sauteed.(Features)(Homefront)

Byline: Colin Woodard Special to The Christian Science Monitor

KOTOR, MONTENEGRO -- Few people realize that agile squid are, in fact, shell-less mollusks and distant cousins of mussels, scallops, and clams.

But squid is rarely prepared so that it tastes as delicate and mouthwatering as fresh steamers or pan-seared scallops. In most restaurants, and, I'm sad to say, my own kitchen, it's often rubbery and nearly tasteless, a textured complement to whatever else it was cooked with. Many eateries simply toss it in the deep-fryer and let salt, oil, and tartar sauce take over from there.

But here on the eastern coast of the Adriatic, squid finally ...

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