Article: Land of the gauchos; Work on the estancia starts with the sunrise.(TRAVEL)

Byline: Harvey Hagman, SPECIAL TO THE WASHINGTON TIMES

Work begins at dawn at Estancia Quemquemtreu (Rolling Stone). I dress and walk to the kitchen, warm myself by the antique wood stove and sip mate, the Argentine green tea. Then foreman Martin Zimmerman and I walk to the corral where the estancia's gauchos have rounded up and are separating and saddling their mounts.

The 720,000-acre estancia - ranch - has 5,000 cattle, 300 horses and 24 gauchos. It takes about four hours of hard driving on dirt roads to cross its vast pampas.

Today, it is branding time, so extra gauchos are working. In the middle of nowhere, each calf must be roped and ...

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