Article: The quiet side of Marrakech: a secluded Amanresort lies not far from the city's madding crowd. (Traveler's Notebook).

Marrakech is once again Morocco's most sought-after city. It was, remember, hugely popular in the sixties and seventies, when it was known as the capital of hippiedom. (For verification, just listen to Crosby, Stills & Nash's 1969 recording of "Marrakesh Express," or rent the movie Hideous Kinky.) Real and faux bohemians of all stripes--including Talitha and Paul Getty and Yves Saint Laurent, who still has a house there--went for drugs and sex (and maybe for rock and roll too, although I doubt it; more likely they came for the richly flavored Moroccan food).

For those who knew it back then, Marrakech is not exactly what it used to be (oh, jaded travelers, is ...

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