Article: Where Americans go to learn Latin; Puerto Rico is very different from the average Caribbean island. It has American ways and a Spanish soul.

Byline: HELEN PICKLES

THE OLD man with grizzled beard asked if I needed directions.

Before I could explain I'd only stopped to admire the buildings, he launched into a philosophical discussion on the meaning of rich: rich in culture or rich in wealth?

Puerto Rico is not your typical Caribbean island of palm-fringed beaches and tequila sunrises. It is full of variety: tropical rainforests, cactus plains, modern casinos to medieval fortresses, designer boutiques to roadside crab stalls. And from surfers to street philosophers, all packed into an island just 100 miles by 35 miles.

The key to understanding Puerto Rico is understanding its a ...

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