Article: Breaking the mould; When it comes to buying cheese, it's not the colour or aroma that counts but the flavour.

Byline: TOM PARKER BOWLES

Two blocks of cheddar cheese sit in front of me. Both are extra mature, but that's where the similarity ends. The first is uniformly smooth and shiny, with a yellow tinge. It looks neat and perfectly formed. The second chunk is paler and less refined. Small fissures mark its surface, and a thin vein of blue mould runs through its centre. Judged on appearance alone, the first would win without contest.

But when it comes to flavour, there's no comparison. While the better-looking cheese is bland, with a bitter chemical after-taste, the less attractive one is richly nutty, with a pronounced tang. The first is a typical supermarket ...

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