Article: Ham for the Holidays - Air- and salt-cured hams from Italy and Spain are treasured gifts with a multitude of uses.

Ham is a time-honored Christmas tradition in many American homes. To me, the ham most worthy of that feast is the prosciutto crudo of Italy and its Spanish counterpart, jam-n serrano. The demand for these hams doubles around this time of year in their respective countries, since they are considered a cherished gift reserved for a favorite relative or special friend.

Shopping in Madrid last Christmas, I witnessed the cured-ham rush firsthand at the Museo de Jam-n. Far from being a museum, this is Madrid's oldest and most beloved specialty food store, known for its cured ham. Rows upon rows of them, hooves and all, hang from the ceiling like so many bats. Customers ...

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