Article: across the borderline; Down in West Texas, the Rio Grande has carved a masterpiece of raw, wild landscape. Hiking through Big Bend National Park, one finds desert isolation tempered by the pleasures of border-town bars.(TRAVEL)

Byline: Chris Riemenschneider; Staff Writer

In this dusty, jagged, dangerous yet life-affirming region of West Texas, the Rio Grande River is many things:

Carver of canyons, rain gutter to the mountains and lifeblood to rafters, farmers, livestock and wildlife. The river even gave the Big Bend region its name, with the sharp, southward then northbound curve it makes.

On my most recent visit to Big Bend National Park, however, the Rio Grande was something it had never been before. Heightened border security post-Sept. 11 and the unlikely addition of a high-dollar resort had turned the river into a roadblock of sorts and a point of contention for ...

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