Article: Big Bend country: lush it's not, but this rugged West Texas frontier offers dramatic vistas and room to roam. (Tour Of The Month).

BROWN, PARCHED, RUGGED, vast, quirky, uncompromising. The Big Bend area of Texas is how I always expected Texas to be. Miles of dusty, over-grazed land, tough weather-beaten ranchers, eccentric towns with character, and enough wide-open space to satisfy even the most claustrophobic.

The first thing you need in this neck of the woods is a car. Distances between places are often long, and you just can't get to some of the most interesting sights without one. But the roads are good and the traffic light, so it's fairly stress-free driving.

We flew into the Midland/Odessa airport, hopped into our rental car, and headed for Fort Stockton. To give you an idea ...

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