Article: The best restaurant in Italy? Chances are, you've never heard of Gallura, in Sardinia. Victor Hazan cooks up a tribute to a culinary destination that's not to be missed.(Restaurant Review)

What luck--you are taking your vacation in Sardinia and flying to Olbia, the island's northeastern port city. If you're like all the other vacationers landing there, you'll head north toward one of the many holiday villages on the coast. You might even be booked into one of the luxurious hotels or villas at the Costa Smeralda, the resort that the Aga Khan caused to rise in the 1960s at the place where granite cliffs meet Sardinia's emerald sea. They are the kind of establishments that, to paraphrase a remark usually attributed to George S. Kaufman, God would have liked to build if only he'd had the money.

Or, you might prefer, like me, to take a short taxi ride ...

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