Article: Heart of Switzerland; Small cities, big scenery, culture and grand hotels.(TRAVEL)

Byline: Corinna Lothar, SPECIAL TO THE WASHINGTON TIMES

LUCERNE,Switzerland. - The dowagers of Switzerland are back - beautiful, stylish, rejuvenated and all dressed up with lifted faces. These are not Swiss grannies, but elegant old palace hotels that once were the mainstay of chic travelers making the grand European tour. They mostly fell from fashion, and Swiss grannies hardly would have recognized them. Now they're back, and they're spectacular.

The grand tour led from England or Germany through Switzerland, the Alpine heart of Europe, to sunny Italy. In the center of that Alpine heart lies Lucerne and the Bernese Oberland, the mountainous region ...

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