Article: Four wines that are close to unforgettable

When Jeff Gaffner worked at Chateau St. Jean, the Sonoma County winery used some barrel-fermented Semillon in its Sauvignon Blanc.

One day, the winery ran out of barrels for the Semillon and had to ferment it in stainless-steel tanks. Gaffner tasted it, and fell in love. He decided right then: If I ever run my own winery, I'm going to make that wine.

We didn't know any of that history when we strolled into a wine store in California that had just two bottles of Semillon from Saxon Brown, Gaffner's small winery. We only knew that we like Saxon Brown's Zinfandel, that Semillon is unusual as a stand-alone varietal in the United States and that, for $20.50, we couldn't get burned very badly.

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