Transcript: Commentary: Classic restaurants are on the decline

SHEILAH KAST
Weekend Edition - Sunday (NPR)
12-26-2004
Commentary: Classic restaurants are on the decline

Host: SHEILAH KAST
Time: 1:00-2:00 PM

SHEILAH KAST, host:

For special occasions, classic restaurants have given way to trendy venues. Time was the white-jacketed waiters were career professionals, not young actors between auditions. But now, when last year's hot restaurant already is passe, WEEKEND EDITION essayist Bonny Wolf remembers some of the old standbys.

BONNY WOLF:

Soft clam bellies don't show up on many menus these days, but they were a staple at Gage & Tollner's from 1880 until the Brooklyn restaurant closed this year on Valentine's Day. I first had them 25 years ago ...

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