Article: INTO THE HEART OF MEXICO; The Urban Adventure Of Mexico City

The curious adventure of Mexico City begins at Benito Juarez International Airport just as you approach customs.

There, a young woman stands beside a traffic light mounted on a post, and she asks you to push a button. If the green light goes on - meaning that some hidden customs official assigned to monitor new arrivals has decided you are free of contraband - Mexico is yours for the taking. But if the red light flashes, you have an appointment with the Mexican bureaucracy. Expect some delays.

I got the red light on my arrival here early last month, and I've been seeing varying shades of red ever since.

But this is, after all, Mexico City, the most populous urban

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