Article: The Cheese Whiz; Solving the Case of The Bogus Mozzarella

Like Sherlock Holmes, Michael Tunick uses reasoning, not intuition, to catch his culprits. Tunick, a chemist here at the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Eastern Regional Research Center, isn't sleuthing for stolen gems or murder weapons, however. He's after suspect cheese.

Take the case of the bogus mozzarella. The tip-off to USDA inspectors was the bags of imported calcium caseinate in the warehouses of a South Dakota cheese firm. The company was supposed to be supplying mozzarella to the school lunch program.

Calcium caseinate is a powdery white substance refined from milk and used widely as an ingredient in imitation cheese. A few years ago, when the international supply of milk was ...

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