Article: As holiday staples go, dough is dear

JOY OF BAKING / HOMEMADE ROLLS

Homemade rolls and good butter were once standard fare on holiday tables. They're no less welcome today, but no one has the time to make them.

One way to do this is to mix a batch of tender rolls, made with just enough whole-wheat flour to give the rolls a pleasant nuttiness, and refrigerate them overnight. Whole-wheat flour adds a gentle heft, and the basic dough is easy to work. It creates voluptuous little break-apart breads that cling to one another as they rise and bake - this is sometimes called "kissing" - and are ready for sweeping with good salted butter.

This yeast dough is fortified with milk, melted butter, and eggs, which add a luxurious element ...

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