Article: Panini perfect

It has the crunch of a potato chip, the crumb of artisan bread and the texture of fine sponge cake. And it makes a mighty good sandwich.

Few breads beat focaccia, an Italian flatbread, when it comes to enclosing everything from ham and Swiss to smoked salmon and radish sprouts. Americans know these sandwiches best as "panini," although other breads are sometimes used.

Joe Mico is sold on focaccia.

"Focaccia is just the opposite of pizza," says Mico, the chef- owner of Pino's Mercato restaurant, in Point Breeze. "It has to go through two proofings (risings), whereas the yeast activation in pizza dough is minimized. Pizza dough needs elasticity to form a thin

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