Article: Haiti's High Hopes; Swaying Palm Trees, Vibrant Art, Fascinating People-and Not Many Tourists

This is a story of the great dog-faced cats of Haiti.

Actually, it's about an old, rambling hotel in Port-au-Prince, but the two dog-faced cats that lived on the premises provided me with endless hours of amusement when I stayed there last spring.

I would come down to the bar in the evenings and watch as one stretched out in a wicker chair to catch the breezes and the other milled around the legs of the odd assortment of patrons.

"You are the ugliest cat I've ever seen in my life," I would murmur to one musingly.

He'd stuff a shepherdlike snout into the palm of my hand and wag his beefy tail.

The hotel is the Grand Hotel Oloffson, a place where proverbial ships passing in the night ...

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