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Article: TASTE OF WINE; CHENIN BLANC GETS NO RESPECT AT ALL
- Article from:
- Dayton Daily News
- Article date:
- April 3, 2002
- Author:
CopyrightCopyright 2002 Dayton Daily News. Provided by ProQuest LLC. (Hide copyright information)
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WE'LL SAY IT AGAIN: Chenin blanc is the Rodney Dangerfield of
white-wine grapes. No respect, no respect at all.
At least, that's the case in the United States, where California
conglomerates for decades have produced thin, insipid, slightly sweet
wines that gave chenin a bad name.
In France, though, chenin blanc enjoys a Jerry Lewis-like
adulation. It is there, in the Loire Valley west and southwest of
Paris, where the grape reaches its heights, in the vineyards of
Vouvray and Montluis and Savennieres. Wines from those regions taste
nothing like their industrial-produced California counterparts: they
can be dry and steely and packed with an essence-of-lime flavor that
can turn the head of ...